And now our big adventure is coming to an end.  So sad... we are happy to returning home, to our family, friends and a new puppy, but oh so depressed that our days of freedom and wonder are over!

 

We're spending a week here in Vancouver and the Queen Charlotte Islands visiting family.  

 

Arriving in Vancouver we experienced some culture shock and sensory overload, which is common when going to another country, but we never expected it of coming back home!  Some of you will remember my first description of Delhi...how the smells of humidity, marigolds, inscence, cattle and several million people all living together accost your senses and are so overpowering but wonderful and exotic at the same time... Well after that experience, Noah and I were more accutely aware of that particular sense in every country we visited.  Arriving in Vancouver we were amazed by the "smell of Canada".  Something none of us would ever have noticed before!  It's fresh and sweet and fresh and sweet again and just "so much air"!  It's hard to describe, but you can just take deep breath after deep breath and it's feels so nice, so clean so "filling"...   Sounds weird, I know... but it's air that holds promise, potential and good things...

 

We were also overwhelmed by voices... it was if our hearing had just been "turned up".  For so long we had learned to tune out the conversations around us, not understanding them anyway.  Suddenly we were on the Air Canada flight from Beijing to Vancouver and in the Ferry Terminal to Vancouver Island and we could hear, and comprehend every single conversation!  And rather than being a pleasent sensation, as expected, it was rather annoying.  Suddenly we had to listen to everyone else's story, be it bragging, complaining, nagging or just plain monotonous litany, whether we wanted to or not.  Our heads were spinning!

 

To be in our beautiful, clean and oh so green country is wonderful.  Cars quietly go up and down the streets and not a piece of litter can be seen.  But the shopping malls, the "big box" complexes, huge parking lots, shiny cars and houses full of "objects", attesting to the materialism of our society is overwhelming after living where we've lived the last ten months.  People in Asia and Africa would say to us, "oh you're so lucky to live in Canada, Canada is so rich".  And we'd reply, "well it is a very nice country, but we're not rich, we all struggle to make money and we are all so stressed that no one is really happy, like you are...."  But coming back we certainly can see how they get the impression...  just the shops, the homes, the stuff, the green space and small things we all take for granted and don't count in our definition of "rich", look mighty excessive and definately "rich" to us now... we struggle to make money for things we don't really need.  It'll be hard to remember this lesson and not fall back into the trap.

 

Anyway, we've enjoyed our time here in what is definately "God's Country" and we are so lucky to be able to call BC part of "our country".  We enjoyed a few nice days of sunshine in the Queen Charlotte's (on my Dad's sailboat), kayaking and fishing... and we even rescued a drowing Bald Eagle! Quite exciting!  Definately a nice way to re-enter and make the transition back to "real life"...

 

 

We've been doing a whirlwind tour of China from bottom to top (Shenzhen to Beijing) in a week.  Lots of night trains and lots of rain!  What a wonderful, curious country!

 

Talk about "Lost in Translation"!  With all our travel experience we were unprepared for the total lack of English spoken in most places here.  It certainly lends to the sense of adventure and we try to navigate our way around, buy tickets, find accomodation and order food that isn't chicken head, brain or feet.  Thank God for our guide book with translations written in chinese characters.  We do a lot of pointing and gesturing.  The Chinese we've run into are friendly and do their best to help us, sometimes with frustration on both sides, but ending always with the best effort and smiles....

 

Shenzhen, and now Beijing with its new Olympic makeover, are so modern they make Canada look 3rd world.  The cities are well organized and they do an amazing job of moving and accomodating the huge population (the cities actually seem less crowded than most others we've visited).   The public transportation system is extensive and easy to negotiate (would be even easier if we knew the language).  They talk about Beijing being polluted but we haven't witnessed that.  It is no worse than any other city and a good deal better than any Indian or or African City.  The ex-pats who live here however, bemoan the loss of the traditional chinese aspects of Beijing (old buildings, street vendors, traditional markets, etc), as it rushes to modernization.  In all places we visited there is an obvious care for the environment and new trees, gardens, parks, lakes and "green" initiatives are common, such as solar power and electric cars and motorbikes.  The locals are very excited about the Olympic Games and very proud to be hosting.  The stories of the Tibetan situation are reported in a different light here, but I will leave the comparisons for later, for obvious reasons.

 

So, we were pleasently surprised by China and its people and hope to come back someday to explore more.  We are really only getting to see some big cities, and would love to explore the gorgeous countryside while some of the traditional ways of life still exist.... next time I guess.

 

Having trouble up-loading the pictures, so once again...stay tuned...

 

 

We now find ourselves in Thailand...and we're not complaining!  We are reminded why this was one of our favourite countries to visit.

The people are friendly, it's beautiful and it is so easy to get around (relatively speaking) and the food is AMAZING (gaining back all the weight we lost in India).  The cities are modern (with 7-11, McDonalds and Subway and everything!...sinkin' our teeth into a burger for the first time in 8 months!) but there is enough of a cultural difference to make it interesting.

 

We spent the first few days on the gorgeous beaches of the south, enjoying the sand and surf.  It was amazing to see the recovery they have made since the Tsunami and also sobering to realize that we were speaking, laughing and interacting with real survivors of this natural disaster (heard some very sad stories and once again, reminded how fortunate we are -see photos: one of our boat guides lost his 7 month old son and had many bones broken). 

 

We hit Bangkok for "Songkran" the Thai New Year Festival.  What a wild time!  Among other traditions, throwing water at each other is the biggest and most fun!  4 days of water fights in the streets.  So fun, and thank goodness because they were having an almost unbearable heat wave.  This was probably a highlight of Noah's trip as she joined other kids in throwing water at scooters and passer-bys and, dancing in the street and riding in the back of pick-up trucks throwing water at everyone in sight! (Pics to come).

 

Then we spent the past week at "Elephant Nature Park", and elephant sanctuary run by a fantastic little Thai lady named "Lek" who has devoted herself to saving the Asian elephant (now dangerously at risk of extinction due to mistreatment and overwork).  So now we have been introduced to the world of saving animals as well as people.  Many of the elephants in the park have been rescued from horrible situations and Lek and her staff made us aware of the terrible abuses these beautiful, intelligent creatures are subjected to just so they can paint pretty pictures, give us rides and log the timber out of disappearing forests....  Anyway, we had a great time getting to know the elephants, and it wasn't all just fun, we worked hard too (elephants make a lot of Poo!).

 

We have a few days left here exploring ancient cities and hill tribes.... stay tuned.

 

 

 

Again the “Winds of Politics” are blowing us in different direction around the world.  Plans to go to Nepal and Tibet have been cancelled due to the elections, protests, violence and general disruptions in both areas.  We cannot help but wonder what the world is coming to, as we get bounced around, but truly have never felt so fortunate to live in a country such as Canada with such stability and good-fortune.  Please, all our friends, take a moment to reflect on your position in life and feel thankful for all you have!

 

We are disappointed that our plans to visit the high Himalayas and the wonderful people who reside there have been cancelled, but the winds have blown us in an equally wonderful direction and now we are sitting in Bangkok airport, waiting for a connecting flight and I finally have time to sit down, reflect and write about our last, very busy, four weeks in Mirik (Northern India). 

 

We hastily left Mirik back in December, as some of you will remember, during a strike, making a midnight get-away to the airport.  The whole three months we were in Africa the protests and “agitations” in Gorkhaland continued, effectively shutting down business, banking and education for the entire winter.  Some were not happy with the leading party and varying parties took turns calling strike days.  The whole Gorkha (Nepali) population held its breath and waited.  Some joined processions or small riots, but most took it as a holiday and something to gossip about with friends and neighbours.  In the true Buddhist/Nepali way, most took it in stride and waited it out… it couldn’t be changed so might as well make the best of it.

 

The day we returned was the day that the party leader finally resigned, ringing in the new party, and new hopes for the independent state of “Gorkhaland”.   This however, did not mean that things would all run slowly and return to “normal”.  Each day we would hike into town eager to do business, effectively eating away half a day.   It took two weeks for the postal workers to return to work.  When we left they still would not mail large parcels or accept western union money transfers.  All winter our committee had waited to open a special Elephant Thoughts bank account and the first Monday we all went eagerly down to the bank, only to be told come back Tuesday.  On Tuesday we were told “not today, Wednesday”.  On Wednesday, we were told not today, maybe next week.  And wouldn’t you know it, ‘next week’ their computer systems were down and remained down the whole time we were there.  We never did get the bank account open!  And the locals never did get access to their own accounts.   This is only the tip of the ice-berg and getting angry or getting frustrated seemed to help absolutely nothing and so we resigned ourselves (well partially anyway) to the fact that some things will have to be left to be done the “local way”.   Patience, capitulation and throwing your hands up in surrender were sometimes all that could be done … a lesson in “acceptance” and insight into the local psyche.

 

We did however, keep extremely busy working on our Bungkulung project.  We were proud of our team’s efforts to open the Elephant Thoughts Kindergarten while we were away and impressed by our teachers and the wonderful job they had done in making the little house we rented into a warm and welcoming space for the 3 to 5 years old of the village.  While I worked with the teachers on teaching methods in the kindergarten, English classes for grades 1-5 and starting the “After-School-English Program”, Steve and his buddies were planning and building walls in the Government School and taking care of legalities.  Noah worked brilliantly with the little ones and taught them a lot of English through play.  A lot of problem-solving was required this trip… taxation issues, international money transfer, banking issues, housing issues, village and interpersonal politics and lackadaisical government teachers.  If I walked down to Bungkulung, it took 2 hours down and 3 hours back up.  “Is-Steve” however, earned himself the name “Is-Speed” for his speed trekking up and down the mountains and his “energizer-bunny” approach to building the walls in the Government School, taking neither tea breaks or raksi-time (local moonshine) with the rest of the crew throughout the day.

 

Noah and I also kept busy, visiting the various schools and ensuring that all our sponsored students were enrolled.  We are happy to report that every single child on our list, is in school, whether through private sponsorship or through Elephant Thoughts’ generous contributions.  Their beaming, happy faces tell it all!   We visited several of our families in need and all seem to be doing better, either health-wise or financially, having been inspired and hope instilled.  There is still a lot of work to do and a lot of people to help, but one by one, we are making a difference….

 

We met Meghan a wonderful young woman from Edmonton and we all took her under our wing, our family and our Nepali family.   She’s been working in China and traveling South East Asia.  She had only planned on spending a day in Mirik, but ended up staying two weeks, being immersed in our local life and helping us with our projects.  She says we were an inspiration to her, and once again, little things like this make all the trials and tribulations, worth it.

 

For those of you supporting us and our Elephant Thoughts projects we’d like to extend a huge THANK YOU!  Especially, to our friends and students at Nottawa Elementary and Duntroon Central schools.   Please know that with your love, support and help, we are making a difference here.  Some things go slow (like building a new school, land transfer, opening bank accounts, etc, etc…).  But this is a fact of life in countries like these.   Progress is made in “baby steps”, but the effect our being here, has on individuals and families, is enormous and every “small step” so deeply appreciated!

 

We are now heading to Phuket (Thailand), for a few days well deserved  R&R on the beach.  Then up to Chaing Mai to volunteer for a week at an Elephant Sanctuary.  Noah is sooo pumped!  I’m eager to soak up the culture and Steve is happy to have his girls all to himself once again!

 

Love to all.

We've been busy building the new walls in the Bungkulung Government School -- trying to divide the 100 + kids up a bit and cut down on the chaos.  On Easter we celebrated not Easter, but "Holi Day" or "Colour Day" and had a lot of fun getting attacked by mobs of men and kids throwing around coloured dye.  We, as the only "white people" in town were huge targets and got the biggest laughs out of the locals.  Noah had a great time!

We are back in Mirik and it feels so nice to be “home” despite the rock-hard beds, freezing cold showers, barking dogs and the world's slowest internet!  The people here can’t be beat anywhere in the world!

 

We went down to Bungkulung straight away to check our first Elephant Thoughts Community School.  The girls (teachers) have done an amazing job setting up the little kindergarten, getting the walls painted, the room decorated, desks built and a little fence to stop the little monkeys from wandering away.  They have 18 of the most adorable Junior Kindergarten kids, ages 3 & 4.  School and structure is new to them (and many of the parents) and the teachers have their work cut out for them, but all agree, you couldn’t get kids any cuter!

 

The teachers are also working in the Government School nearby, teaching English and getting up the academic levels so they are ready when we open our Junior site.  As you can see from the pictures, the teachers have there work cut out for them here, with baby siblings competing for attention, no walls (lots of noise) and lazy government workers…

But they are doing a wonderful job and we are so excited.

 

The lawyer we retained did very little in our absence (surprise, surprise) and we have our work cut out fighting legalities and bureaucracy once again… stay tuned…

For those of you who would like to read our past entries, check out "Archives" on the left side-bottom of this blog.  Each month tells the story of our adventures!

And a couple of people have asked how to sponsor "Mandy's Families".  )The photos can be found when you scroll down the photo folders, and the stories are in the archives under 'October'.  Unfortunately, while we were away the "Nepali Family" moved back to Nepal...)

We are here for a short time and want to do as much as we can for these families while we are here (till end of March) If you wish to help, write me personally at the3wanderers@hotmail.com .  We will front the money on our c.card and I'll give you my home address to mail us a cheque.  Thanks!  Every bit helps!

It's our last day in Cairo.  We moved out of our fancy 5 star resort and into a local hostel downtown.  Much better!  Much cheaper, but on the quiet side of the street...nice and clean and in the action of downtown.  We are getting a much better feel for Cairo now, away from the touts and people who make their living ripping off tourists.  The city comes alive at night with families all out and about enjoying time together.  We explore the city until 10pm and feel absolutely safe.  We are getting to know the Egyptians away from the tourist sites and find they are very friendly.  All are curious about Noah (and she, poor her, is constantly pestered) and we have recieved a few marriage proposals, at which Steve replies "30 racing camels" and I firmly say "No way!"

The women are all veiled (faces showing) and the young women are especially fashionable, matching veils to amazing outfits.  I've gone to wearing scarves too as it really helps not having to worry about your hairstyle every time you go out.

 

I heard it said that Africa has so much potential and it's absoulutely correct.  In every country, no matter how poor, the people have an amazing strength and motivation to make their lives better.  They work so hard to care for their families and look out for friends and neighbours.  Given time, Africa will become great.  The help recieved from the west is appreciated here, and needed, but they also do their share of work to improve their standard of living.  Their leaders are learning to "lead better" and democracy and leadership is growing.   In the past, they have been messed up by European and Western influences, especially through colonialism and capitalism.  It is now a "Catch 22".  They need western business investment, to produce jobs and income, but with every company investing in Africa, comes exploitation of resources, land and people.  It also puts the African nation into further debt with its western benifactor (e.g. do you think George w. just lent $70,000,000 to Tanzania out of the goodness of his heart?  Don't think so... There is off-shore oil on the banks of Zanibar, in the line of whale migration and ancient fishing routes...sure George has his eye on that as repayment...) 

 

And since we are on a political rant just now, for my American friends here's some info... Eastern and Southern African's are excited about another Black Man, Obama, becoming president.  Hillary visited Tanzania and handed out mosquito nets, so she's also a favourite!  We met a taxi driver here in Egypt (whose views may not be shared by all), who would like to see McCain win.  That way the Arab world will still know who its enemy is and with all the spending on war continuing,  he'd sure to bring down the USA economically, allowing the Middle East to gain more power!  So that's his theory anyway... It's been really interesting to get all the different views on politics here. 

 

Tomorrow we're heading back to India...feels like we're going home!

 

Here we are coming to the end of an Egyptian Dream... and what to say about Egypt? 

 

Visually stunning, awesome in its immensity, historically impressive and absolutely mind-blowing!  The fact that you are standing in 5000 years of civilized, recorded and artistically exquisite history, is absolutely overwhelming… we keep having to pinch ourselves!  On the other hand, amidst all the astounding accounts of times past, I feel a lack of soul, or lack of spirituality I feel when I’m in the Himalayas.  Something I imagined and hoped I would feel when faced with the Great Pyramids and these other awesome monuments.  I think it would be different if we were to go back in time, to see and feel the atmosphere, the sights and sounds of ancient times.  Now, however, the throngs of tourists and the overwhelming harassment of the touts and so-called “antiquities police” constantly hounding you for “baksheesh” (money) so that you cannot even have a moment of peace to reflect, absolutely distract from any sentimental moment you may summon up (esp. at the pyramids- other sites somewhat better).

 

That being said, we have had an amazing time!  Our tour company and their guides have been wonderful and most of our tour has been private, avoiding the large tour buses and groups and creating our own schedule.  We took a cruise up the Nile from Aswan to Luxor and had a wonderful time with two other Canadians, John and Janice from Alberta (now working in Kuwait).  Having been to the source of the White Nile in Uganda and the source of the Blue Nile in Ethiopia, it was a wonderful thing to float down the Great Nile itself and tomorrow we’ll be going to the Mediterranean where the Nile meets the Sea…

 

Noah is fascinated by the many different Gods and has become quite the expert.  She and Steve sneak off the beaten track at every chance (and that’s tough between traveling in convoys and the close watch of the antiquities police) to dig around in the sand for treasures.  They’ve found bones, teeth and a few cool stones… she’s dying to be an archaeologist now!

 

Have other pictures to load, but must have reached the monthly quota, it’s not letting me post anymore and gotta run…i-net really expensive here… heading back to India in a few days.

It’s been a long time since we’ve been able to get to the internet.  We’ve been on the go non-stop and everyone must be wondering if we’re still alive or not!  We left Uganda on Feb. 5^th and have since been touring the northern areas of Ethiopia (if you can call it touring!).  I have been unable to find an internet server that will allow me to update photos as of yet.

 

So, I’ll try to summarize recent events….where to start!

 

Uganda

Uganda was great and probably our favourite African country so far.  It was the people that made it great.  They were so friendly and easy-going.  Most of them had a pretty good grasp of English so it was easy to communicate and we made a lot of friends.  They were eager to get to know us and be friends for the sake of friendship (not all about getting money out of the foreigner).  They obviously care for their environment and take pride in the peace and democracy they have achieved.  Yes, it definitely was the people.

 

The country does not receive as many tourists as Tanzania and Kenya and it made getting around trickier, but more of an adventure as we negotiated the rigours of public transit in Africa (jammed-packed buses, bumpy roads, maniac drivers, 2 hit-and-run casualties on the side of the road, tire blow-outs, etc.).  We zoomed through Kampala on the back of motorcycle taxis, weaving our way in and around the traffic congestion (why does everything fun have to be dangerous?!).  We had a real pizza for the first time in months!  We made friends with another school principal and enjoyed dinner at his home and met his whole village.  Just about every Ugandan tried to convert us to Christianity.  We went almost all the way to the Kenyan border and saw ‘Sipi Falls’ and experienced villages rarely visited by foreigners.

 

But two activities stand out, and the first was the three days spent at the orphanage.  This was by far Noah’s favourite activity and had she not been so curious and then totally devoted and wonderful with the children, we may have missed this wonderful experience.  However, as expected, I became attached to a couple of the little girls and if Ugandan adoption laws were not so tough (must reside in Uganda for 3 years), we’d surely be coming home with a couple.  Steve bonded especially with a little one named Juliet and I with Lizzie.  It still hurts my heart to have left them behind…  the one consolation is that the orphanage they are in, is pretty good and they try their best to match them with loving families…?

 

We also went to Jinja, the source of the White Nile (White and Blue join to form the Great Nile), famous in the rafting world for the some of the best rapids in the world.  After a scary experience rafting in Nepal long ago, I was reluctant to try again.  So brave Steve tried first, tackling the “Grade 5” rapids (higher than grade 5 is impossible or at least seriously risking your life).  He had an awesome time, spent clinging to the raft or getting flipped out!!!  I couldn’t be called a chicken for long and Noah and I decided to tackle some grade 3 rapids the next day (unfortunately the pictures from this day were accidentally erased from the disc!  But I really did do it!!) .  We had a great time and after judging us as the adventurous types our river guide surprised us by hitting a grade 5 rapid at the end.  We all flipped up into air and were flung clear of the overturned raft.  What a rush!   Guides, rescue kayaks and parents all searched and swam towards Noah, who came up laughing and ya-hooing and joyfully yelling the next 100 metres down the rivers until we could upright the raft!  Great fun!

 

The only thing we missed is getting to see the beautiful mountain gorillas, but they do not allow children under 15 years old to trek into the mountains to visit the gorilla families because humans and gorillas share so much of the same genetic make up, it’s possible to pass on our diseases and illnesses to them (and apparently children carry disease?).  Oh well, it gives us something more to come back for.

 

 

Ethiopia

Upon arrival in Addis Ababa, we were amazed at the modern city, its cosmopolitan flair, its cleanliness, quietness, and at long last, absolutely amazing Italian and Western food.  The people of Ethiopia were also very welcoming and we immediately had a good impression. 

 

We decided to book a driver and head up north to the most historical regions of Ethiopia (ancient Absynnia).  Traveling out of the city, was like traveling back in time. Once we left the black-top roads of Addis, we entered countryside and villages that must look the same as they did thousands of years ago!  The earth is dry and the roads so dusty we were soon covered in a thick film of dust.  They say that in rainy season the world gets green again, but how they survive until then, is beyond me!  They truly are amazing people.  The rural people are called “pastoralists” living their lives largely as shepherds.  Watching them with their herds of goats, sheep and cattle, wrapped in white robes, one truly feels like they’ve been transported back to Biblical times…and “Biblical Times” play a large role in the history of collective existence in this part of Ethiopia.  Christianity was brought to Ethiopia thousands of years ago, and their “Queen of Sheba” traveled to Jeruselum where she had a child with The King Solomon (of the bible).  She and the baby returned to Ethiopia where their descendents practiced Christianity, created highly advanced civilizations and awe-inspiring churches and monuments to God.  The most amazing of these are in Lalibala, where 11 churches are carved down in to pure rock, then hollowed out to create the breathtaking and spiritual structures.  They say it took King Lalibala only 23 years to create the churches with the help of angels and if you haven’t previously believed in the work of angels, this place could change your mind!  (Will have to come back and post more pictures!).

 

We also visited “Gondor” with its ancient castles and Axum, home of the Queen of Sheba and ancient Kings.  The Simien mountains were astounding and one would not have imagined that Ethiopia contained such landforms or could be so cold!  In the mountains we saw the local Gabala Baboons and one befriend Noah, wanting to hang on her back and have Noah carry her like her “Mama”.  We all took turns getting the flu and plugging the local toilets, which don’t flush well, given the lack of available water in many areas. 

 

Ethiopia is a harsh but beautiful country and has some of the most beautiful, resilient people we have ever met… definitely a learning experience!

 

Ok, I said I’d try to make it short…kind hard for me…  we are off to Cairo on the 18^th,  where I will try to upload more pictures.

Well, we find ourselves here in Uganda...and getting here is a whole other long story!  But for those of you for which the name "Uganda" brings to mind Idi Amin, Entebbe Hostage Crisis and HIV/AIDS capital of Africa.... think again!  Since the "dark days" Uganda has worked hard at pulling itself out of its "slump".   The people are wonderful and friendly and the environment beautiful and so clean!  It is an amazing place and refreshingly unspoiled by tourism (and the greed that ensues).  There is still poverty, and the president has been president for 22 years (many feel its time for change and redistribution of wealth), but the people seem so positive, upbeat and genuinel. 

We're here till the 5th...will probably want more...visted an amzing little orphange today and going river rafting at the source of the Nile...stay tuned!

We are almost done our tour of Tanzania and trying to decide where to explore next?  The forces of nature and politics are coming more into play than we ever expected.  We can't head south as severe flooding in Zambia and Mozambique are driving people from their homes and into the streets and shelters (and a lot of ensuing desperation arises).  We had plans to go to Kenya, but near civil war over recent elections (more than 1000 dead in the last month) and riots and shooting in the street have pretty much ruled out Kenya for us.  Getting up to Uganda is proving tricky transportation wise (ferry routes cancelled, buses go through Kenya first on their way to Kampala...).  We hear Ethiopia is absolutely beautiful (not only the dry deserts we all think of) and that the people are wonderful...so maybe we'll be going there next...?  Stay tuned>>>

Have been visiting villages in the areas we visit and like India, the need for help in education is so huge!  Like India, parents must pay for their children's education ... we don't realize how blessed we are in Canada!  Here in Tanzania, it cost $25 to send your child to a government school, but even that is out of reach for many families.  The government schools here are just packed!  We saw a class in Lower Moshi with 120 kids in grade 5 alone.  In Igoma, our friend's son in class 5, has 171 kids in his one class!  Private education is better, but costs an unrealistic $500/year. 

As you can see from our pictures, we visited a very welcoming school in Lower Moshi (Kilimanjaro can be seen behind it on a clear day).   The kids have to carry water in jugs from over a km away, to use for drinking, watering plants and cleaning the school.  We are going to try to get them a water well built through Elephant Thoughts.  We visited a mom with 8 children and no father in sight.  We were taken to see another mom who is dying of AIDS, about to leave her children orphaned.  All these kids need to go to school and all are so, so sweet....

In Igoma, we visited a teacher, a one-man show, trying to educate the most poor kids in his villages as well as deaf and disabled children who are not accepted into the government schools.  He's just scraping by, barely. He has 45 kids of varying ages in one cramped, dark room and must families are unable to pay.  We're going to try to help him out too.

So much need...so little $$$  .  Gotta win the lottery!

We've arrive in Mwanza after 5 days on Safari through Lake Mayanara, Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti National Park.  The Safari adventure was awesome!  The Crater has an amazing concentration of wildlife all co-habiting (with the occasional lion to spice things up).  The Serengeti was vast and varied in scenery and wildlife as well.  The wildebeest were starting to migrate with the zebra and the lions were not far behind.  We tented in the campsites at night, waiting to hear the sound of lions, but only, unfortunately (or fortunately) only heard hyenas and jackals.  The experience solidified Noah's desire to be an animal researcher and we found a research centre and got to speak with some of the biologists.  (Actually, she wants to study animal/human/global warming interaction---what a kid!).

 

We visited Oldapai Gorge where the Leakey's found evidence of early man, 3 million years ago...awe inspiring...

 

The Masai live a semi-nomadic life around Ngorongoro Crater and we visited one of their villages.  The young boys herd the cows, their most valuable possession, as young as four years old.  We were in awe at the awsome responsibilities these kids take on (it makes our kids seem so spoiled--sorry kids!).  We were invited for lunch, but luckily had to move on! The menu was cows blood and milk (that, and beef, being their staple diet).  It was such a cool experience to communicate and spend time with this Masai family  trying so hard to retain their culture in a changing world and we wish we could have stayed longer!

Finally found an interet that will let me upload, but had very few pictures on me.  We're in the small town of "mwanza" looking into our next e.t project after an amazing safari experience!  Will bring back some more pics and write more tonight!

KILIMANJARO

 

(for a brief version, scroll down to the ** to read about our summiting experience)

 

Climbing Kilimanjaro… the most amazing, most challenging experience of our lives!

 

The trek began at the gates to the Machame Route, where dozens of foreigners and porters lined up to register and have packs weighed.  Unlike our trek in Northern India, there are no ponies, dzows or yaks here to do the heavy carrying.  Everything is carried up the mountain by sheer human power.  The porters are supposed to have a limit of 25kg, but it seems that some have more.  Gradually, each team starts up the “hill”, the porters carrying loads you wouldn’t believe on top of their heads, many wearing an assortment of foreign cast-off clothing and flip-flops, “workie-boots” or dress shoes, much like the porters in India or Nepal.  By contrast, the foreigners are all decked out in their best North Face or MEC-type trekking clothing, carrying light day packs and ski-poles to help them up the hill. 

 

We start off on a nicely groomed trail, up through the rainforest environment of the lower part of Kilimanjaro, a volcanic mountain (now thankfully dormant!).  The Tanzanian motto is “Pole Pole” (pronounced ‘polay polay’), meaning “Slowly Slowly” and this stands particularly true here on the mountain, where our guide does not allow us to dash forward and up as we are accustomed to doing.   It almost feels like torture.  We are so excited and just want to get up!   But as we find out over the next few days “pole pole” saves us and gets just about everyone up the mountain, where the rapid increases and decreases in altitude could kill you if things are not taken slowly (and all washed down with litres and litres of water).

 

Our first night in the tents is spent in a sparsely wooded area with other teams camped all around and a buzz in the air – an international contingent of excited voices from all over the world and porters, cooks and guides laughing and talking in Swahili.  21 climbers from “Team Papillion” of Quebec (raising money for a foundation for disabled children) arrive up the hill and the porters greet them with rousing trekking songs sung in the beautiful, deep acapala voices of Africa, with a strong dose a of humour thrown in.  It is here that Steve wants me to add, that a precious Snicker bar was “snuck”, earning Mandy the name of “Snicker Snucker” for the rest of the climb…

 

As we ascend on our second day, we leave the groomed trail and enter the more barren terrain of a volcanic mountain.  Jungle is replaced by rock, dirt, lichen and small bushes with pretty little flowers.  Our guidebook described the day as a ‘strenuous day in the scorching heat’, so we dressed in tank tops and shorts and watched as our backpacks were carried far ahead and out of reach, by the porters.   A steady climb up for most of the day turned into scrambling over rock faces at the end of the day, as clouds rolled in and mist descended.  It got very chilly and we shivered our way into camp, cursing the guy who wrote the guide book (in July as it turns out, and didn’t mention that in January, the weather gets very, very cool in the afternoons on the mountain).    We climbed into our tent just as the rain started to pour down.   After a little nap, as our guide promised, the sun broke through the clouds and the skies parted, giving us a gorgeous view of Kilimanjaro peak, neighbouring Mt. Meru and Shira Crater.  We explored a lava cave and scrambled around on cool volcanic rock formations.  We were treated to a beautiful sunset then fell into our tent at 6:30, to sleep the rest of the night.

 

The third day was a challenge as we made our way even higher, with the ultimate goal of reaching the “Lava Tower” at 4530m.  It was a slow and steady slog up dirt and shale paths, and around boulders, often stepping to the side to allow the porters to pass.  The surroundings became more and more barren, except for the presence of  the “Giant Scenecio” plant, now appearing, like trees that had walked right off the pages of a Dr. Seuss book and smaller “Loberia” plants folding and unfolding to protect their central flower and reservoir of preciously stored water.  The Lava Tower was very cool in more ways than one and we scurried to find a place to eat our lunch out of the wind.  Spending half an hour here in order to acclimatize to the altitude, was the goal, but half an hour was more than enough in the cold (if we had only known what we’d be subjected to later!) and we started our descent down to the next camp.   The way down was one of the coolest parts of the hike as we paralleled a glacial river with Giant Scenecio plants bordering the edges.  With the barren rock terrain, the mist hanging in the air and the extra-terrestrial-like plants, it was like walking in another world!  

 

As we arrived into camp we all had splitting headaches due to the high ascent and descent, but apparently this is part of the “initiation” and necessary to experience before the final ascent to the top.  In the middle of the night, poor Noah had to dash out of the tent (thank goodness she made it out the double-broken-zipper-doors) to vomit, which was a little worrisome but apparently a good thing, as this now left her body not having to worry about digesting and able to send more blood, oxygen and energy to her brain to help adjust to the altitude.

 

The next day we started the climb with an ascent up the face of a cliff.  It was almost straight up and although ropes were not necessary here, (they certainly would have been mandatory in Canada) it was really steep and we clung and climbed like monkeys.  The porters threw their loads up from one ledge to the next or somehow balanced them on their heads while they climbed!  It took us an hour to scale this face, and as scary as it sounds, wasn’t really that bad and quite fun!   At the top, we walked down into a shallow crater which was like a walk on the moon.  Barren, with a few rock outcroppings it was beautiful in its simplicity.  From time to time, the afternoon clouds would part and the glacial peaks would appear, taking our breath away each time we saw it.

 

** We arrived at Base Camp, “Barafu Huts”, at 4681m (15,358ft).  The camp was perched on a ridge with the toilets suspended over the cliff, the wind whipping back up the holes and dust devils tore the tents and gear from the ground and whipped them up and around the sky, causing the porters to run up, down and around the mountain, collecting their equipment. We tucked into our tents for a nap before our planned ascent but were so nervous and excited it was hard to get any sleep.  At 11pm we got up, had tea and biscuits and got ready for our big climb.

 

The night sky was incredible!  We have truly never seen so many stars in our lives.  Is it because we are now so close to the sky, or because we are in Africa with such little light pollution compared to the rest of the world?  We can almost touch the milky-way and see nebulas with the naked eye.  If you reach up your hand you can nearly catch the shooting stars.

 

We start up the ridge, toward the summit.  The glaciers shimmer slightly in the starlight 3,000 feet above.  We are glad we rented down jackets and winter clothing because it’s a lot, lot colder up here than we ever imagined down in the oppressive heat of the plains (and “asante sana” to Lisa from Chicago for the hand warmers!).  Pole, pole we go, one foot after another up the ridge in the darkness, with a small circle of light from our headlamps to guide our footsteps.   After about an hour the wind becomes unbelievable!  We are climbing a ridge about 3 metres wide, cliffs falling away on each side into perpetual darkness.   The frigid wind threatens to blow us of the mountain and takes our breath away.  Noah seems so small against this mighty backdrop.  She gives up her hiking pole and resorts to climbing on all fours, hand over hand, foot after foot up the ridge to avoid being driven off.   The gale takes the wind from my lungs and my chest is tight, but my heart is full and constricts with pride at Noah’s bravery and determination.

 

Slowly, slowly we pass each group of climbers as they stop to rest.  Our guide doesn’t want us to stop.  To stop means allowing your body to get colder and this drains your energy faster than the exertion.  We’re dying to stop.  Our lungs are screaming, our head pounding.  I’m thirsty (but the water bottles are frozen).  To stop for a  pee would mean definite freezing of certain body parts, so we climb with full bladders, ready to burst from all the water intake (to help repel altitude sickness).  Noah refuses to stop.  Her determination is incredible! 

 

At 6am we see a pink and red light on the Eastern horizon.  Thank God!  The sun is coming up and as day breaks we make it to Stella Point on the crater rim at 5752m (18,871ft).  This is the first chance for a rest and the point at which many exhausted people just don’t get past.  We take a couple minutes and our assistant guide takes tea out of a thermos.  It’s a nice surprise but does little to warm us up at this point. We gulp it down.  It’s too cold to stay long and with our steady pace we have pulled ahead of almost every other group and want to be among the first to the top before the crowd gets there.  As it gets brighter we can see the glaciers, the crater and the light creeping across the plains the East.  To the South there are clouds, and we are above them.  

 

 

The sky is now bright and the new sun is bouncing off the glaciers.  Our spirits are lifted and despite our exhaustion and the continuing bitter wind, we almost fly to the top.  We reach Uhuru Peak (5895m/19,341ft) at 6:30 am.  WE DID IT!  We take off our gloves at the risk of frost bite and snap some pictures.  We hike down to the glacier and pass crosses, marking the graves (sites) of people who didn’t quite make it.  We gaze up in awe at the mighty glaciers, which every year become smaller and smaller due to global warming.  In 20 years, they won’t be here.  We reach out and touch them and feel so small but so connected to something much bigger than man-kind.

 

Noah is now famous on the mountain.  As we descend, sliding down volcanic scree and sand, the guides and porters all stop to marvel at her strength and courage.  She is hugged, kissed and lifted into the sky on their shoulders.  It is very rare for a 10 year old to make it to the top (only 1 or 2 per year) and she is the first one that most of them have seen.   Her story precedes our descent and she is cheered on and sung songs of congratulations all the way down the mountain!

 

Climbing Kilimanjaro most definitely was the hardest but best experience of our lives!

We made it to the summit and back down!  Exhausted but the experience of a lifetime! Will update with all the story within the next couple of days...

We are here in Moshi where we can gaze up at Kilimanjaro from our hotel's balcony!  There is not much snow left (thanks to global warming) so we cannot wait to get up there and experience it all while we can!   We're starting out on New Years Day.  Hiking and camping in tents all the way up to about 5895m.  A cool way to "ring in" 2008!  Will be back on the 7th.

Luv m,s,n